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arrival in greenland

It is said that Greenland means ‘the land of man’. To the Greenlandic natives, it is home, where the dark days and sunlit nights demand the human spirit to endure at all costs. As foreigners, it is the...

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the land of ice

There is a calmness and silence that drifts through the air in Greenland. It is a current of irresistible energy that draws you closer to the heart of nature. If you still your mind, you can hear the...

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survival of spirit

It seems that everything will start again anew. After many days of perpetual dismal darkness, a slice of sky emerged just long enough to paint the ice a turquoise shade of perfection. In most other...

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christina biilmann

Christina Biilmann is a mother, granddaughter, Greenlandic chef, maid, front desk receptionist and now, our friend. Beyond her external classifications, she is a women of compassion and conviction with...

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fisherman for life

When we sat at the airport in Reykjavik one week ago, I browsed through a nearby magazine about Greenland. One featured title caught my eye, ‘Greenland is place that was made so it could be...

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last place on earth

10:40 pm early April and the sun sits well above the horizon. Teasing its inhabitants on land with the thought of night fall, midnight sun is now upon northern Greenland. No matter how many times I...

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the golden hours

When ‘golden hour’ lasts 5 hours and stretches from 10pm to 4am, your world slips into another reality that becomes clearly distinguishable from the one you used to know. Jeans, kale and chai tea seem...

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fixing a hole

Fixing a hole, but this hole is to be kept open rather than patched shut. The life of a fisherman in Greenland is a winter and spring spent on the ice, spending days in a self constructed hut on the...

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people of qaanaaq

An elderly man sits atop his front porch watching the world pass by. Upon approaching him, he tells us he has Parkinson’s as he looks down at his shaking hand. His English ends at that and he nods...

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the modern day Polar Eskimo

I would like to premise this post with a bit of cultural history and a personal opinion into the future. This article is longer than previous narratives, but I ask you read on as I finally feel I am...

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polar realities

It is true that if an Inuit hunter were to see two polar bears, instead of hunting just one which could be shared among a small community, most hunters will shoot them both. Because of the strict...

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